| Biography - Horst P. Horst: |
1906
Horst
Paul Albert Bohrmann born 14 August in Weissenfels-an-der-Salle, second son
of Max Bohrmann and his wife Klara, nee Schonbrodt.
His father is a wealthy shopkeeper (he runs a thriving hardware business),
has wide-ranging interests and is a member of the local Masonic lodge;
he later attends the philosopher Graf Keyserling’s ‘School
of Wisdom’, founded in Darmstadt in 1920; meets the Indian poet Rabindranath
Tagore as
well as Josephine Baker.
1913 Horst’s mother is admitted temporarily to a sanatorium.
1914 On the outbreak of the First Worl War, Horst’s father is called up to serve on the Western Front, not to return until the end of the war in 1918.
The
1920s
The family’s financial situation is consolidated quickly after the war; Horst’s
father is the first in Weissenfels to buy a car. Through his
Aunt Grete, whose house in Weimar is a meeting place for numerous artists,
Horst meets Eva Weidemann, a student of dance and drama at the Bauhaus.
She arouses his interest in avant-garde art; he is soon familiar with the
latest developments in dance, theatre, painting, and architecture. He
spends a
year in Switzerland, being treated for a lung disease. In the late ‘20s
Horst begins to study at the Hamburg Kunstgewerbeschule. Friends made
there
include many sons and daughters of wealthy Hamburg families, such as Mirzel
Darboven, daughter of the coffee importer. Horst writes to Le Corbusier,
asking him for an apprenticeship in his Paris architectural office.
Le Corbusier agrees.
1930
Horst
goes to Paris at the beginning of the year to
train under Le Corbusier. He makes friends with Robert de Saint-Jean
and Julien
Green and visits many galleries and museums. He meets Vogue photographer
Baron George Hoyningen-Huene. He spends the summer
in Berlin as the guest of brother and sister Francesco and Eleonora von Mendelssohn;
highly cultured and musical, they introduce him to the
theatre world. Eleonora plays in the Max Rienhardt Ensemble. Horst
meets Gustav Grundgens and Erich Maria Remarque. In the winter he
travels to England with Huene. Among others they visit the Ashcombe
home of photographer Cecil Beaton, who is working for British Vogue.
1931
Horst’s
association with Vogue begins in the spring, thanks to Huene: he introduces
him to fashion designer Carl Erickson and
his wife, as well as to Dr Mehemed Agha, art director of Vogue in New
York. Shortly afterwards he begins work as a photographer in
Vogue’s Paris studio. His first photo appears in the French November
edition. In the winter he travels to the South of France with Huene.
At
the beginning of the year Vogue publisher Conde Nast invites Horst
to work for him in the USA for six months. He arrives in New York in
the
spring. Portraits of Bette Davis. Dismissed by Conde Nast before
the end of his contract due to differences in opinion. From the autumn
he stays
for several months in Huene’s house in Hammamet, Tunisia.
1930 First exhibition in the La Plume d’Or Gallery in Paris; reviewed by Janet Flanner in the New Yorker.
1934
In February Horst works in England: photographs of Noel Coward
and Yvonne Printemps. Portraits of Lisa Fonssagrives,
Natasha Paley, Cole Porter and Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris.
1935
Huene moves to Harper’s Bazaar
at the beginning of the year; Horst takes over his job at Vogue in
Paris. Soon afterwards
Conde Nast invites him back to New York. Short trip to Hollywood; he
photographs Katherine Hepburn and George Cukor.
His return to Paris is followed by a holiday at Eleonora von Mendelssohn’s
Austrian home, Schloss Kammer on the Attersee.
Returns to New York in the autumn.
1936
Meets Luchino Visconti while
staying in Paris at the beginning of the year;
start of a lifelong friendship. Holiday at
Schloss Kammer with Huene in July; excursion to Venice. Returns to New
York in the autumn.
1937
Horst rents an apartment in Sutton
Place, New York, with Huene. In the summer he meets Coco Chanel.
Holiday at
Schloss Kammer in September.
1938
Autumn: Horst’s first exhibition
in the USA – portraits and fashion photography
in Germain Seligman’s Art Gallery,
New York. In December he photographs Toscanini in New York.
1939
Travels to Greece
with Huene in the spring. In June Horst meets Thornton Wilder and Jean
Cocteau in Paris. In July he
stays in Schuls-Tarasp (Engadine, Switzerland) and returns to New York in
September. Outbreak of the Second World War.
1940 Horst applies for US citizenship.
1941 11 December: Hitler and Mussolini declare war on the United States.
1942
In the summer Horst passes a
medical for the US army. Death of Conde
Nast (September). Horst is called up for 15
October, but the order is postponed two days beforehand.
1943
Horst joins the US
army on 2 July; his first posting is to Camp Union, Long Island, followed
by basic training in Fort
Belvoir, Virginia. 21 October: sworn in on the Constitution of the USA,
receives US citizenship as Horst P. Horst. Becomes
an army photographer, some of his work is for Belvoir
Castle, the local forces’ magazine.
1944
At
the end of the year – while Horst is still stationed in Fort
Belvoir – his first book, Photographs of a Decade, appears in New
York. Work for the weekly magazine Outfit, and for Yank.
1935
Horst photographs US
president Harry S. Truman. Vogue has meantime put together a new team
of photographers, including
Cecil Beaton and Irving Penn; nevertheless, Horst receives a new contract
when he is released from the army. Travels to Mexico.
1936
Horst works for Vogue in Paris.
He meets many of his old friends and photographs Gertrude Stein, Leon Blum,
Romain Rolland
and Oscar Dominguez. Back in New York he continues work on his second
book, Patterns From Nature, a collection of plant
still lifes. Horst’s long-cherished plan of building himself a house
in Oyster Bay, Long Island, and settling there, takes on concrete shape.
1937
Horst moves into the house in
Oyster Bay. Christian Dior, Niki de Gunzburg
and Salvador Dali are among the first visitors.
In the spring Horst meets British diplomat Valentine Lawford in New York.
In the summer he travels to Paris and Venice; he
photographs Misia Sert, Jean Cocteau and Jean Marais. Returns to Oyster
Bay in September. In the autumn he is visited there
by Cecil Beaton. In the winter Horst and Lawford travel through Arizona,
New Mexico, and Texas to Mexico, Guatemala, and Cuba.
1938 Goes to London and Paris. Photographs English country homes.
1939
In July Horst and Lawford travel
to Beirut, via London, Venice, and Rome.
Next stops are Damascus, Dera (Syria), and
Baghdad. They go on to Tehran and spend two weeks in Iran, followed
by visits to Tel Aviv, Haifa, and Jerusalem. Return
to Paris, where Horst photographs the latest fashions for Vogue. Part
of the autumn spent in California.
1940
Second trip to Iran
in the spring. In Tehran he meets Lawford, who is working at the British
Embassy there. In the region
between Chalus and Gurgan, near the Soviet border, they are twice arrested,
suspected of spying.
1941
Coco Chanel visits Horst in February
in Oyster Bay. American Vogue closes down
its New York studio; the photographers
now work in their own ateliers. Horst rents the apartment previously
occupied by the painter Pavel Tchelitchew on the East
Side to use as a studio. In December he travels to Rome and Kitzbuhel.
1942
In January Horst goes to Berlin,
via Munich. He sees his mother for the first time since the war.
In February he returns to
Paris to photograph the spring fashions for Vogue. In March he photographs
Suzy Parker in Kitzbuhel, then goes on to
Rome where he meets Luchino Visconti. An increase in work for House
and Garden, which started in the late ‘40s.
1954/55 Horst spends part of each summer in the Tyrol.
1956 Travels to Germany and Austria in the summer.
1957 Numerous advertising contracts in the USA.
1956
Travels to Marrakesh (Morocco) in January.
In the summer Horst photographs celebrities and their homes in Germany and
Austria, then Manzu and Moravia in Italy. He visits Visconti in Rome.
On his way back he photographs Herbert von Karajan
in the Tyrol and Ingrid Bergman in Paris. Large exhibition in the USA:
travel photography in the Country Art Gallery, Long
Island, and ‘Twenty-Five Years of Portraits’ in the Sagittarius Gallery, Manhatten.
1957
Advertising shots in Jamaica,
Florida, and the Bahamas at the beginning of the year. In the spring
and summer Horst
works in Germany and Austria. In October he buys a mountain farm in
the Tyrol.
1958 Advertising work in Florida. Spends the spring and summer renovating his farm. In September he returns to New York via Amsterdam.
1959
Diana Vreeland becomes editor-in-chief
of American Vogue. She spurs Horst on to tackle an entirely new area;
series of
photos illustrating the lifestyle of international high society become one
of his specialties in the ‘60s, alongside fashion and
advertising. From now onwards Horst spends nearly all of his time travelling,
on both sides of the Atlantic.
1960
January: advertising photos
in Florida and Hawaii. In February Horst
sets off on a two-month round-the-world trip: he goes
to California, Japan, Hong Kong, Thailand, India, Nepal, Egypt, and Rome.
The new Vogue series begins in August with a
photo-report on Consuela Vanderbilt-Balsan, the former Duchess of Marlborough.
Death of Horst’s mother.
1961
In January Huene visits Horst
in Oyster Bay. August: the New York premiere
of Visconti’s first film, The Leopard.
Horst photographs the Rothschilds in Chateau Mounton, the Windsors in Paris
and Emilio Pucci in Florence.
1962
Travels to France,
England, and Ireland for Vogue; in June spends several weeks in Copenhagen
working on the
special edition on Denmark.
1963
Works in California
and Hawaii at the beginning of the year. In February and March he photographs
German Baroque
and Rococo churches for the next Christmas edition of Vogue. Travels
to Italy – visits the Agnellis in Piedmont and Cy
Twombly in Rome, among others – and England. In December he works in
Hawaii.
1964 Horst photographs his own house in Oyster Bay for the Vogue series. During the early part of the year he is commissioned by Vogue to take photographs on Capri and in Germany, France, Vienna and England. In May he visits Coco Chanel in Paris. He sees her for the last time.
1965 Photos for Vogue in – among other places – Venezuela, Portugal, Virginia and Texas.
1956
Publication
of Vogue’s Book of Houses, Gardens, People with photos by Horst and
text by Valentine Lawford. Several
trips to France and Italy for Vogue in the spring/summer.
Horst is in Venice when he hears of the death of George
Hoyninger-Huene (9 September).
1957 May and June spent in Normandy, Rome and Paris.
1958
Work
trips to Guadeloupe and the Bahamas. Horst
works on his book, Salute to the Thirties, which contains portraits
by himself and Huene. It is published a year later.
1959
Coco
Chanel dies in January. Diana Vreeland leaves Vogue, although her celebrities
series continues into the mid-‘70s.
Horst works in France and Italy. Due to
pressure and time he is forced to turn down Visconti’s invitation to take
the stills
during the filming of Death in Venice. The next years are taken
up chiefly with work for House and Garden.
1960
Horst
works in Mexico (March) and in France (May).
In June he travels to Istanbul and Romania where he photographs
many of the old frescoed churches and monasteries in Transsylvania and Wallachia.
Later he goes to Barcelona.
1961 Commissioned by Vogue, Horst visits the Rothschilds near Bordeaux and art historian Douglas Cooper in his chateau in Provence.
1975 January: private trip to Leningrad and Moscow. March: death of Luchino Visconti.
1976 March: exhibition in the Sonnabend Gallery, New York.
1977 Exhibition at the Andrew Crispo Gallery, New York.
1978
Several
work trips to France for American Vogue and
House and Garden. In August he spends a week in Greece.
In September Horst appears on TV in Hamburg, then goes on to Switzerland.
From December once again he photographs
Paris haute couture for French Vogue. Richard J. Tardiff becomes
his agent.
1979
Horst
works in Santo Domingo (April/May) and Munich
(early May). In July/August he photographs Axel Springer in Berlin.
In September he travels to Morocco: portraits of Yves Saint Laurent in his
house in Marrakesh. In November he takes photos
for French Vogue in Paris.
1980
In
the ‘80s Horst works for English, Italian and Spanish Vogue as well as for
their American and French counterparts;
and also now for Vanity Fair. Exhibitions at the Neikrug and
Staley Wise Galleries in New York.
1981-83 Horst works on two books.
1984 The Stanley Wise Gallery becomes Horst’s gallery in New York.
1956
Publication
of Vogue’s Book of Houses, Gardens, People with photos by Horst and
text by Valentine Lawford. Several
trips to France and Italy for Vogue in the spring/summer.
Horst is in Venice when he hears of the death of George
Hoyninger-Huene (9 September).
1957 May and June spent in Normandy, Rome and Paris.
May-July: the ‘Horst – Photography 1931-84’ exhibition in the Fortuny Palace,
Venice. Richard J. Tardiff becomes Horst’s manager.
1986 August: exhibition at the Hamilton Gallery in London.
1987 Exhibition at the Stadtmuseum, Munich (September-November) and the Kuntshalle, Bremen (November 1987-January 1988).
1988 Numerous exhibitions: in London (Hamilton’s), Frankfurt (Fotografie Forum),
Zurich
(Nikon Live Galerie), Hamburg (Museum fur Kunst and Gewerbe). Horst
recieves the Lifetime Achievement Award of the
Council of Fashion Designers of America. Exhibition at the Jane Corkin
Gallery, Toronto (October).
1989 In April Horst receives an honorary doctorate from the University of Bradford.
Exhibitions at Hamilton’s in London, the Fahey/Klein Gallery in Los Angeles (May) and the Holly Solomon Gallery, New York (July).
1990 Exhibitions at the Galleria in Houston, Texas (February) and the Jane Corkin
Gallery,
Toronto (October). Exhibition of platinum prints of his photos from
1935 to 1989 in the Fay Gold Gallery, Atlanta,
Georgia (December 1990-January 1991).
1991 Preparations for an exhibition to be held from March to September in the Musee des Arts de la Mode in the Louvre.
1999 Horst Dies in November at age 93
2001 Work shown in AIPAD Photography Show in New York through the Fay Gold Gallery, Atlanta, GA.
2002 Work shown in New York Armory Photography Show through Fay Gold Gallery